AROUND AND ABOUT
ROMNEY MARSH 

Revised 1966

ITINERARY IDEAS

A FEW WORDS ABOUT
WHAT THERE IS TO SEE AND DO
WHILST ON 

ROMNEY MARSH

 CONTENTS

PART IV

III. Tours by Motor Coach

To those whose interests lie further afield and who are basing their plans on visits to historical places of interest outside walking distance day excursions by motor coach are available.

 Amongst the many places of interest practically every visitor will include Dover and Canterbury, whilst such other spots' as Bodiam, Rye, Winchelsea, Battle, Hastings, Smallhythe, Brookland and Chilham may get overlooked.

 Some may be combined with others when planning circular drives, but care should be exercised not to overload any one expedition; above all, keeping Dover and Canterbury for different days where at all possible.

 It is a part of the country so steeped in history and interesting stories of the past that it may appear difficult to see the wood for the trees if collective tours are adopted in the sole interest of economy.

 Please forgive this digression from the subject of this pamphlet, though if I may claim your indulgence I do feel that it has a very direct bearing upon the enjoyment and instructive value derived from the selection of the excursions.

 The accompanying table of standard coach tour's is not intended to be exhaustive but is based so as to cover a limited field of interest and enjoyment in each.

 For sake of simplicity here are a few words about each in the order in which they appear in the list.

FOLKESTONE

The route follows the coast through Dymchurch and Hythe to Folkestone, which is situated on the cliffs overlooking the Pas de Calais.

 The Parish Church, the Bayle and the cobbled High Street all provide links with the past, though to the casual visitor of today the view from the Leas and the attraction of the shops are probably all that strike attention.

 A visit to the harbour and fish market for those who are interested in ships and possibly a trip in a motor boat provide good amusement. There is also an amusement park and open air swimming bath close by for those who are inclined that way.

 Day trips to France run from here.

DOVER

The road to Dover after leaving Folkestone rises steeply to the top of the cliffs whence grand views in all directions are obtainable. It is a windswept open road for the most part of the way save when it drops and follows the valley where the hill-sides rise steeply on either hand.

 The first glimpse one gets of Dover - after passing Capel-le-Ferne - is of the castle 'keep' surmounting a high ridge and standing out boldly against the sky line between the two bounding sides of the valley down which one is travelling.

 It might appear superfluous to attempt to describe in detail this famous fortress and cross-channel port, which derives its name from the Saxon Dorfa.

The Castle affords a never-ceasing source of attraction for young folk. The official guides who conduct parties around invariably emblazon the more prosaic facts of history with colourful incidents, and stirring descriptions of feats of arms which hold the attention of all during the tour of chambers, towers and dungeons. It is even reported that in a predecessor of the present castle King Arthur once resided.

 The church nearby under the lee of the Pharos should not escape a visit. Probably one of the earliest of Christian places of worship in the island, it is of Roman origin as witness the brick and masonry of which it is constructed. The north wall of the chancel shows good examples of this. Much has been done to the building during the last century to restore it from ruins into which it had fallen due to many years of gross neglect.

 From the Roman lighthouse or Pharos was once displayed a rich glow from a brazier of burning coals mounted on its summit to direct Roman vessels and craft into the. harbour below the cliff. This conspicuous landmark causes one to pause and contemplate awhile. It has seen the coming of Christianity to England, the fall of the Roman Empire, the ravages of the Danes, the Norman conquest, and the growth of the British Commonwealth. Even today, in its weathered state it still stands guard over the first and greatest of all these, the news of which was most probably brought to this Island by Roman soldiers of the Legion who had witnessed the Crucifixion of Christ, and who, like the centurion in the Gospel narrative, exclaimed— "of a truth this was the Son of God."

 Leaving the castle and the high cliffs, a visit to the harbour may be of interest to some, more especially when the Cross Channel packets are arriving or leaving port. The up-to-date terminal for the car ferry with its mechanical devices to enable cars to drive straight on board the ship may be of interest to some. Private arrangements can be made to visit the port installations such as the pilot cutter, lighthouse and mole.

 Motor boat trips around the harbour are readily obtainable locally, and arrangements for them should be made on the spot.

CANTERBURY

This ancient Cathedral City can best be approached via Hythe and along the ancient Roman Road of Stone Street across the North Downs. From here and looking backward one sees the Marsh laid out in the form of a relief map, whilst to right and left glimpses of arable pasture and wooded country in their varying shades of brown and green provide many a canvas for an artistic eye.

 As one speeds along this straight road one can profitably permit ones mind to tumble back over the centuries to the days when Roman legionaries marched that way, being passed from time to time by clattering chariots driven by the more high-ranking officials bound on duty, as today such military officers may travel by car to carry out inspections or attend important meetings.

 Canterbury is so full of interest that to attempt to describe it here would be far beyond the scope or purpose of this brief pamphlet.

 As a seat of learning and centre of Christianity it has been established nigh on eighteen centuries. It suffered greatly at the hands of the Danes though even they could not utterly quench the flame which had withstood the ravages of the Roman Emperor Diocletian at the beginning of the IVth Century.

 Today the Cathedral proudly stands as a monument to the nameless thousands of mixed races and colour by whose valour and unflinching courage we, and through us the western world, are so much the richer.

 Let it not be thought that Augustine was the founder of Christianity in England. Records there are plenty to establish the presence of the "new faith" in this land during the latter part of the first and early part of the second centuries A.D., nearly three hundred years before that famous missionary landed on our shores.

 For visitors to the city let me say this, no one can see all that there is to be viewed in a week, far less in an hour or two.

 The cathedral with its monastic buildings built of Caen stone dates back to 1070 when Archbishop Lanfranc replaced the last of the Saxon buildings which had been destroyed by fire in 1067.

 Of the earlier buildings dating back to Roman times there are now no remains.

 What you see today represents work carried out between the llth and 16th centuries almost entirely. From then until now there has been little or no new construction, though repairs and alterations there have been many. Perhaps the most significant of these in modern times is the beautiful cathedral library. This is perhaps one of the finest collection of records in the world housed in the most up to date conditions of the highest dignity.

 The cathedral library was destroyed by enemy action on 1st June 1942 when it received a direct hit from a German bomb.

 Fortunately practically all the valuable archives had been placed in other repositories for their safety and such books as remained were nearly all recovered from the ruins where they had been protected to a great extent by the backs of their heavy cases as these fell inwards and were covered by masonry and rubble from the roof. A few days later salvage began and to the relief of the Dean and Chapter the total losses were relatively few.

 This however is a digression.

 The cathedral as it now stands besides being the accepted Mother Church of the English communion stands out as a monument to Christian work and teaching in this Country since about the 3rd century or possibly even earlier still.

 From the ruined remains of the monastic buildings attached to the cathedral we see how the sick were cared for and learning developed in accordance with Christ's teaching under the auspices of the Church.

 This is interesting when we compare these things with our own times and how bit by bit the Church has decentralised many of its earlier responsibilities to the State as it has developed under lay Christian leadership.

 From the sketch plan of the monastic establishment can be seen the buildings of the infirmary, some of the ruins of which are still standing. The cloisters were where the early scholars devoted themselves to their studies sitting at rude desks to execute so many of the old manuscripts from which we are able to gather our information of the past and base our philo- sophies tor the future.

 The "dorters'" are where the monks and brothers slept and from their size we can well imagine the size of the community who comprised such an establishment.

 The picturesque water tower in Norman architecture reminds us that in those early days water was "laid on" so to speak. The water was brought to the cathedral by an aquaduct and piped to different spots in lead pipes some of which are still in use.

 The chapter house, or cathedral office, is where the cathedral authorities met to conduct their business both religious and secular under their principal the prior (later the dean).

 There were many activities in such an establishment, besides the ecclesiastical duties of the church, amongst which were the preparation of medicines and wines, the maintenance of the buildings and their furnishings, the care of the sick and the aged and the training of men for the ministry.

 From the beginning such an establishment was in fact a model town centering all its activities on the church with the "Master" as its head.

 Of the cathedral church itself much has been written, one pecularity is at least worthy of notice.

 It will be observed that the chancel and eastern portion of the building are slightly out of line with the nave and the main body of the church. This was a plan adopted by the early church builders to depict Our Lord as hanging upon the cross with head inclined to the right and out stretched arms.

The central tower carries the bells and was so placed that when the peal rang out hearers might call to mind the heart beats of the Saviour as He hung upon the tree calling all men to Him saying "Father forgive them, for they know not what they do."  There are many tombs and monuments about the building but probably every visitor will want to know where Thomas-a- Becket is buried. Today nothing remains to mark the site where once stood perhaps the most gorgeously decorated shrine the world has ever known at which kings, princes, priests and beggars have done pilgrimage.

 By order of King Henry VIII in 1338 the whole was obliterated and gold, jewels and precious ornaments were removed the value of which has been computed at many thousands of pounds sterling in the currency and values of those days.

 Thus today we have no monument to show where fell an archbishop at the hands of four knights filled with zeal to obey the every thought of their hasty liege lord King Henry II who in a burst of exasperated fury was so foolishly out-spoken as to wish to be rid of so turbulent a priest.

 The incident occured on 29th December, 1170 on Becket's return to this country from France and whilst the king was out of England. On landing at Sandwich he learned for the first time that the king had instructed the Archbishop of York to perform a coronation ceremony upon his son Henry, so that in fact there were two Kings of England at that date both Henry by name, father and son.

 This had taken place on 14th June. (This Henry pre- deceased his father).

 So incensed was Becket that he suspended the Archbishop of York and excommunicated the Bishops of London and Salisbury who had assisted at this illegal and most irregular ceremony.

 The news of Becket's action soon reached Henry II and the dastardly drama ensued  Reginald Fitzurse, Wiiliam de Tracy, Hugh de Morville and Richard Ie Breton came post haste to England and foregathered at Saltwood Castle the country residence of the Archbishop which during his pro- tracted absence on the continent had been seized by Randolf de Broc. Here the plot was laid.

 Clarenbald, a life long enemy of Becket was Abbot of St. Augustines Abbev in Canterbury and to him the four knights repaired.

The news that trouble was afoot reached Beckett's ears in his palace. The monks of the cathedral growing alarmed hastened him to the sanctuary of the church proceeding along the cloisters to the north transept.

 Becket would not be hustled and though the hour was but 4 o'clock he insisted on his primatal cross being carried before him in solemn procession. Hardly had he reached the Cathedral than by the other side of the cloister walk the murderous knights rushed upon him.

 Becket's courage and dignity are unquestionable as in reply to the infamous question of "Where is Thomas Becket, traitor to King and realm" he replied "Here am I, no traitor, but priest of God; what is your pleasure?"  He was struck down as he uttered bis last words "For the name of Jesus and the protection of the Church I am prepared to embrace death."  His body was. laid to rest in a marble tomb at the east end of the Crypt.

 Fifty years later Becket was reinterred in a magnificent shrine in Trinity chapel to the eastward of the high altar, a place of honour, to which pilgrims flocked for 318 years until September 1538.

 In Trinity chapel lie buried Henry IV and Edward the Black Prince.

 There are many other tombs of eminent persons in state and church but the scope of this pamphlet does not permit of their description here.

 The finest examples of man's architectural craft through- out the ages are preserved in this magnificent building wrought by devoted hands to the glory of God, and without count of cost.

 The whole is a national treasure of priceless worth which stands as a monument to devotion and gratitude for a way of life only made possibly by that one great Sacrifice made for all on Calvary outside the ancient city of Jerusalem.

 For any one desirous of planning a visit to the Cathedral who may wish to view the salient features and has not over much time to spare the following itinerary is suggested.

Enter by the south-west porch and dwell awhile in the nave to appreciate the dignity and atmosphere of God's house from the westend.

 Move across to the north side of the nave and walk eastwards until reaching the steps leading up into the north transept. Bear left at this point and leave the church to visit the cloisters where so many scholars have studied in the middle ages.

 Returning by the same door as you left you will be following the path that Becket and his murderers took on 29th December 1170 and find yourselves at the site of the scene known to many as the Martyrdom.

 Hence mount the steps leading to the ambulatory running around the choir and follow rou'nd towards the east end of the building this leads past numerous side chapels and monuments including the tomb of King Henry IV which is on the right hand side.

 At the eastern extremity in the Corona is to be seen St. Augustine's chair which is used at the enthronement of an Archbishop.

 Bearing westwards will be seen the tomb of Edward the Black Prince, on the right hand side. Entering the enclosure formed by these ancient monumental tombs one is immediately behind the high altar and in the Trinity chapel where once stood the magnificent shrine to Thomas Becket at which so many pilgrims worshipped.

 Leaving Trinity chapel by the same archway proceed further wastward till reaching the entry to the choir next to the archbishop's throne.

 The full beauty of this part of the building can best be appreciated from here in the centre of the presbytery.

 Leaving the choir by the same way as you entered turn to the right and lead down to the nave. Do not fail to raise your eyes upwards to the lantern under the tower.

 From here descend to the Crypt where services are also held.

 A short tour of this will serve to show the architectural genius of the early builders in providing adequate strength for so massive a structure to stand for so many centuries.

 Emerging from the Crypt by the northern exit, access to the ruins of the monastic buildings is obtained. A short circuit of these will complete the tour, though by no means exhaust the full scope of interesting matter.

 Such a tour will at least enable any visitor to feel that he or she has seen Canterbury Cathedral and experienced its most enthralling influence.

 Besides the cathedral there are of particular note the Abbey of St. Augustine and the Weavers' House.

 The last mentioned was established in the reign of King Edward III as part of his scheme to further the wool trade and industry in this country. The introduction of Flemish Weavers from the Continent to instruct the people of Kent in this new craft resulted in the formation of a small community of these folk who occupied this interesting old house by the river.

 Leaving Canterbury a return route may be shaped via Chilham and Ashford or alternatively down the Elham Valley. The former is very attractive and takes one into a little unspoiled village of Kent nestling at the Castle gateway, on the Pilgrims' Way.